Daily Differences

 

    Adjusting to life in Germany has not been easy. Before arrival, I did not realize how much daily tasks become daily rituals, or how much energy it takes to disrupt these rituals and adopt new ones. Although I haven’t experienced too much culture shock, there are many differences I’ve noticed between Ohio and Erlangen. If you want to spend time in Germany, here are some differences you may want to know:

Bread: What everyone says is true: the Germans know how to make bread. From sandwiches to buns to pretzels to sourdough to desserts to strudels, you name it, German bread is delicious. Bakeries are nestled on every other street corner and no matter which one I attend, the bakers working behind the counter have always been sweet and helpful, even when I fumble over my words.

Currency: With Euros, each bill is a different length and color, making it easy to distinguish between different amounts. Some coins are cents and some are full Euros, so make sure you know the difference.

Insect Hotels: This is a concept I never knew existed before living in Germany. Apparently, these cute little constructions are exactly what you’d think: hotels for insects! They’re surprisingly big. Here’s a photo of one I saw in Würzburg yesterday: 

Masks: Masks are still required on public transportation and in certain indoor spaces like pharmacies. It’s also normal to see people wearing masks in public, at school, or outside, especially if they’re feeling sick.

Pigeons: They’re EVERYWHERE. I’m not kidding. One almost flew straight into my head when I was walking down the street yesterday. I’ve seen pigeons inside train stations and shopping centers. When I visited Munich and Würzburg, they were there too. You can’t escape them. In battle, the pigeons in Erlangen would easily massacre the seagulls at Cedar Point. We’re all outnumbered. It’s only a matter of time.

Postal Mail: Most bureaucratic processes are still done through paper mail rather than email, which means registering for electricity or receiving your student ID can take weeks.

Public Transportation: When I arrived in Munich’s airport the morning of September 5th, I knew I needed to travel over 117 miles to Erlangen, then find my address within Erlangen, all while carrying my heavy luggage and without access to a car. Luckily, because of Germany’s trains and buses (and a little help from my friends), I was able to get from Munich to Erlangen, then from Erlangen’s train station to my apartment, quickly enough to be completely moved in by about 2pm. The Cleveland airport is closer to Bowling Green than Munich is to Erlangen, but an international student landing there would have a MUCH tougher time covering that distance without a car than I did here in Germany. While there can be delays or some routes may get crowded, having any public transportation is better than little to none. My only obstacle without a car in Germany is the weather, but even then, I have adopted the German mindset of “Wir sind nicht aus Zucker!” (The rain won’t stop us because we are not made out of sugar). This video captures the sentiment entertainingly.

Recycling: From what I've noticed, Germans take recycling seriously. Walking through a neighborhood, it’s normal to notice four or five different colored bins at the end of every driveway. I haven’t seen a plastic straw since landing in Germany. It’s not that Germans inherently care more about the Earth and climate change than Americans do (well, maybe some); rather, recycling is socially encouraged and systemically supported, making it possible and simple for every single person to compost, separate their trash, and reuse or recycle most of what they buy.

Repurposing Buildings: Rather than knocking down old buildings and rebuilding new ones in their place, Germans tend to use existing buildings for new purposes, leading to the creation of the fanciest McDonald’s I’ve ever seen:

Sidewalks and Streets: Sidewalks are wide, with plenty of room for both cyclists and pedestrians. Streets are narrower and cars are smaller than in the States. Speed limits are painted on the ground and traffic lights are usually lower and stationed at street corners rather than hanging over the center of the intersection. I think cars are being discouraged in favor of public transportation due to their environmental impact and the rising cost of fuel.

Tip: When waiting at a crosswalk, even if the streets are completely empty without a hint of a car horn blowing faintly in the wind, Germans typically do not cross until the signal changes to green. Crossing while the signal is still red, no matter how safe, is frowned upon.

Smoking: From what I’ve noticed, smoking seems to be more common here in Bavaria than Ohio, especially with young people. Almost every outdoor restaurant table and trashcan has an ashtray.

Street art: Stickers on poles and graffiti on walls or electrical boxes are common, often with political motivation. Here are some examples of the street art I’ve passed:

The Forrest Gump sticker (which translates to “Life is like a box of chocolates…too much plastic.”) and acronyms like “ACAB” (not pictured but frequently spotted) seem to be small examples of the influence that American pop culture and politics have had on Germany.

Sundays: In Germany, Sunday is known as the day of rest. Most shops are closed and public spaces are not as crowded. People are encouraged to relax rather than go out. I love the idea of an official day of rest because it feels like society is asking me to slow down, or maybe it lets me give myself permission to take a break.

Travel: In my experience, the average German seems to be more internationally well-traveled than the average American. Foreign countries are much closer and transportation within and between countries is efficient. The United States is a BIG country and there are plenty of unique, spectacular places to visit domestically. Unless you are planning to visit Canada or Mexico, international travel can be difficult and expensive, and according to the BBC, only about 40% of Americans have a passport (I read a few more articles from other news sources and the figure stayed the same).

Water: At every restaurant in America that I can remember, water is free with your meal. However, that is not the case in Germany. Water costs money, and if you don’t want sparkling water, you must request “stilles Wasser” (still water, basically tap water). Free water at American restaurants is something my German counterparts have expressed a bit of jealousy about!

    Overall, I am slowly adapting to life in Germany. I will probably notice even more differences throughout the rest of my year here, and I’m already planning to bring some of these changes (like regularly composting) back home with me!

Teaching

    I have officially concluded my first week of working as an English Teaching Assistant! To sum it up in one word, it has been wonderful.

    My fellow teachers have been very welcoming to me, answering any questions I have, introducing me to the students with enthusiasm, and granting me their trust. They’ve complimented my German abilities and my motivation numerous times, which I appreciate. Although most of my conversations have been with those who teach English or who have spent time abroad in an English-speaking country, I have also conversed with staff members predominantly in German. Last Friday, I bonded with many of them as we took a train to a nearby town, hiked 5 kilometers to a Biergarten, ate lunch, hiked the 5 kilometers back, and finally rode the train back to Erlangen together. Although it was extremely mentally taxing to hear and speak so much German for hours on end while engaging in light exercise, I think I made a good first impression. Since then, some of them have watched how I present lessons and handle a classroom, and most seem eager to have me in their classrooms again (my permanent schedule is not 100% set yet).

    Making interpersonal connections and discussing cultural differences have been some of my favorite moments so far in Germany. Just yesterday, I spoke with one of my colleagues about the differences between American teachers and German teachers, both in terms of expectations placed upon them and the treatment they receive. I spoke frankly about the challenges that today’s American educators face, such as criticism from administrators, politicians, and parents, certain states or areas banning books and regulating what teachers can/should teach, and gun violence. The exchange of knowledge, personal experiences, and differing perspectives is, to me, the heart of the Fulbright experience. I find the process of learning extremely fulfilling, and I cannot wait to see how I grow as a person by the end of this year.

    The students have been, of course, the best part of my week. Overall, they strike me as intelligent, inquisitive, good listeners, and well-spoken. In addition, they seem to be remarkably well-behaved. On Tuesday, there was a mistake on the class schedule, so the teacher and I needed to move our class of Year 5 students from the second floor down to the basement. I was extremely impressed when the teacher simply told the students about the mix-up, then they quickly gathered their belongings and began walking. No lines, no arguments in the hallway, no need to monitor them every step of the way. The teacher and I walked at the back of the group, and by the time we reached the correct classroom, most of the students were already seated and pulling out their supplies. 

    I posed two questions to some of my classes: First, why is it important to learn English, or what are your personal motivations for learning English? Second, is it important for native English speakers to learn another language? A surprising number of students answered “No, it is not necessary,” for the second question. With both questions, we discussed English being the lingua franca of the world, how widespread English education is across the world, and the influence of American pop culture, such as music and movies.

    There were a couple times this week when I stumbled over my words or embarrassed myself, but I managed to laugh it off without feeling shame. I hope my students feel comfortable experimenting with English with me and making mistakes because I have already made several mistakes in German, such as saying my favorite German food is Käse Schinken instead of Käse Spätzel; my students managed to correct me when I said, "It's the German version of macaroni and cheese!" I'll use my own struggles as a German learner to inform my decisions as a teacher and I hope my students can relate to my experiences.

    This week, the students reminded me of why I love teaching so much. After I finished my introductory lesson, some of the classes surprised me by clapping for me. It was touching to look around and see such genuine smiles and appreciation from these students. Other students waited after class to speak with me privately or ask me a personal question. Even after only one week, I remember a few names and a few instances where a student and I connected over something (like being Ravenclaws and liking Luna Lovegood!). I still miss my students from last year, and I hope the connections I make this year are as just as deep and fulfilling. I am endlessly grateful for this opportunity, and I can already tell I am going to love my job.

    Even the school’s cafeteria is impressive. When I ate lunch with some of my colleagues, I discovered that the cafeteria has its own personal chef who makes the meals each day. Rather than typical American school lunches of cardboard pizza, bendy carrots, a tasteless fruit cup, and a box of milk, I enjoyed a full serving of fresh, hot ratatouille with some sort of delicious Austrian dessert. 

    Since this school is focused on the arts (music, theatre, and visual arts), many of the walls are decorated with the students’ creations. Walking out of the building earlier, I passed a group of girls playfully singing in harmony with each other. I have also been asked to occasionally attend rehearsals for the school play, which will be in English, and offer my help with pronunciation, phrasing, etc. It is wonderful to be in a place where the arts are not only properly funded, but also openly valued and celebrated.

    Next week, I will add the primary school to my weekly schedule. As of now, I will work at the high school on Monday through Wednesday and at the elementary school on Thursdays. I have Fridays reserved for lesson planning and my university coursework (and a little bit of travel, when I have the chance).

    Accepting this Fulbright award is one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. I am expanding my horizons, growing in independence and knowledge, and living in the moment. Education is a wonderful gift and I hope my students benefit from this year as much as I know I will. 

A Baker's Kindness

 

    I wrote this in my journal earlier today, but I thought it might do some good here:

September 14, 2022

    Amidst the chaos of everything recently--trying to gather all the correct papers for my residence permit, preparing to be both a teacher and a student, improving my German, attempting to master the bus system, and so much more--it's nice to have small moments of peace and personal happiness. This is one of those moments. After a morning spent completely chained to my desk searching through university classes on my laptop, I am now sitting outside a cute bakery with a large cappuccino and an apple strudel. Both taste like they were made with love and respect for the culinary arts, but it was the lady behind the counter that made my day. As I took my time at the counter silently trying to match the German names I read with the baked goods I saw (okay, Apfelkuchen means apple cake, so it must be that one!), she waited while I took "einen Moment, bitte," (a moment, please) to decide what to order. After I pointed to something and asked what it was, I immediately knew she recognized that I'm a foreigner from the deliberate and slightly slower way she explained the items. However, instead of switching to English, she continued to speak in German, which I deeply appreciated. Although I took longer than a typical customer and needed a little more assistance, she listened and responded without any air of judgement. Now, I get to sit here, despite the rain, despite the cars passing by, and despite the construction right across the street, and feel at ease. 

    When someone gives you patience without patronization, when they understand your differences without making you feel different, and when they give you the chance to learn without making you feel guilty or stupid for not already knowing, then you begin to feel accepted. You feel like you'll belong someday, or maybe that you already belong.

Die erste Woche

“All of the doors yet to open,

all of the rooms ahead—

they’re beckoning bright,

scary and new,

but I’m standing tall,

and I’m walking through!”

-The Life I Never Led from “Sister Act (The Musical)”

    This week has been…incredible. Challenging. Wonderful. Exhausting. I could use many adjectives to attempt to describe my experiences thus far, but none can perfectly summarize everything. I will attempt to be concise in this post and not ramble too much!

Die Stadt (the city)

    So far, Erlangen has been a lovely place to call home. Sidewalks are wide and often color-coded--red for cyclists and grey for pedestrians--making it extremely convenient for me to walk anywhere I need to (By the way, the importance of staying in the correct sidewalk section was a lesson I learned on the first day as I was carrying a heavy grocery bag back from Aldi and noticed cyclists kept swerving around me. Oops!). On Tuesday, I went on a walking tour of the city, which gave me the chance to meet other international students living here, marvel at Erlangen's many old buildings, and learn a bit more about the city's history. The activity I've enjoyed the most was walking around the Schlossgarten (castle garden) while sipping some local coffee and conversing in German with one of my new friends. This photo was taken in front of the Schlossgarten's spectacular Huguenot fountain:

Das Studentenwohnheim (the dormitory/student residence)

    I am very happy with my living quarters. With my own private restroom, a small kitchen space, and plenty of storage, it feels more like a small apartment than a dorm room. I am on the top floor, so I have a magnificent view of the surrounding neighborhood. 

Essen (Food) 

    Erlangen offers a wide variety of culinary choices. So far, I have eaten out twice: once at an Indian restaurant and once at a more traditional German restaurant called "Brasserie". I also felt quite accomplished when I ordered and paid for some delicious ice cream completely in German!

Die Menschen in meiner Stadt (The people in my city)

    Erlangen boasts a diverse and (in my experience) friendly population. Even when I mispronounce a word or struggle to format a sentence correctly, the people are patient and nice. Every bus driver has been patient as I try to pronounce the names of stops and streets correctly. When I bought my first Pullover (sweater) in German yesterday, the cashier was kind even when I misheard "neunzehn" (19) as just "neun" (9) and only gave him ten euro before quickly realizing and correcting my mistake. Last night, I learned that German waiters and waitresses do not need as large of a tip as in the United States, so I encountered a bit of confusion when I tried to leave a 5€ tip for a meal that cost a little less than 15€! Our Kellner (waiter) was kind and corrected me, explaining to me that only a euro or two is normal for a meal like mine.

    However, I understand that my experiences are merely my own.  Looking like I do with a name like Julia Schneider, it is incredibly easy for me to blend in. As of yet, I have not encountered any rudeness, impatience, anger, or suspicion from others. I recognize that I have a certain level of privilege and that my observations and experiences are not universal.

Meine Freundinnen (My friends)

    I have made two friends so far in Erlangen! By signing up for the local university's "Buddy Program", I have been introduced to two German women who have helped me tremendously. They helped me carry my luggage to my dorm, they've helped translate for me when I did not understand a specific word or phrase, they accompanied me as I acquired a German phone number, and they helped me establish my own German bank account! We had dinner together last night and engaged in wonderful conversations about politics, cultural differences, languages, and much more. Without their help, along with the assistance and support provided by Sam (son of Dr. Miner, one of my favorite professors) on my first day arriving in Germany, I would not feel as safe and secure as I do now.

Müde (Tired)

    Since arriving, I have found I get exhausted extremely easily. After a full day, I often collapse onto my bed in the evening, unable to even write an email. In the middle of the day at times, my energy feels completely depleted; I’ve had to return to my apartment several times just to take a nap. Adjusting to the time difference (Erlangen is 6 hours ahead of Ohio) is likely a contributing factor, but I believe the major cause is the mental fatigue that results from constantly communicating in a second language. While I am not afraid of making mistakes and I'm not ashamed to carefully consider my words (one of my German friends even told me yesterday that my German has improved just in the week she’s known me), it is mentally taxing to operate in a place where I am not yet fluent in the dominant language. 

    Letting myself rest and relax when necessary has been instrumental in allowing myself to recover my energy and process everything. While part of me is screaming, “Why are you napping? You’re in Germany, get out there and explore while you still can!”, the more logical, reasonable voice in my head knows that I will be here almost a full year, and to burn myself out before I even start teaching would benefit nobody.

Conclusion

    I am proud of myself for how well I am adapting to my new life and its many challenges. I think I am a positive representative for America and I am so excited for the year ahead. Bis später!